Ever since we all learned that those apricot facial scrubs can be kinda bad for you, actually, chemical exfoliants like AHAs and BHAs have risen in popularity.
But what are AHAs and BHAs? How are they different? And if you’re currently struggling with acne, uneven texture, dullness, or skin sensitivity, are AHAs or BHAs best for your specific skin concerns?
We’ll cover everything you need to know about AHAs and BHAs, including their subtle differences and when to use which.
By the end of this article, you’ll say, “AHA! I know exactly what my skin needs.” (Too much? …Moving on.)
AHA vs BHA Comparison
AHAs stand for Alpha Hydroxy Acids. They’re a group of acids that occur naturally in certain foods. When used in skincare, they’re typically created in a lab and can fight acne, exfoliate the skin, and improve skin texture. Some of the most common AHAs used in skincare are lactic acid and glycolic acid.
BHAs stand for Beta Hydroxy Acids. They naturally occur in many plant sources, but are typically produced in a laboratory when used in cosmetic formulations. They are exfoliating acids that offer also pore-cleaning and acne-fighting benefits. The most common BHA used in skincare is salicylic acid.
Let’s check out how AHAs and BHAs compare:
|
Key Factors |
AHA |
BHA |
|
Exfoliation Mechanism |
Works on the surface of the skin by breaking down dead skin cells |
Penetrates deep into the pores to clear out debris |
|
Best for Skin Type |
Dry, sun-damaged skin |
Oily, acne-prone skin |
|
Primary Benefits |
Improves skin texture, brightens complexion |
Reduces acne, unclogs pores |
|
Common Side Effects |
Redness, irritation |
Dryness, peeling |
When to Use AHAs vs BHAs
Overlapping Benefits:
|
Use Cases |
AHA |
BHA |
|
Improve skin texture and tone |
✓ |
✓ |
|
Help with hyperpigmentation |
✓ |
✓ |
|
Enhance absorption of skincare products |
✓ |
✓ |
|
Promote cell turnover |
✓ |
✓ |
Both AHAs and BHAs can be used to promote bright, supple, smooth skin.
When to Use AHAs:
|
Use Cases |
AHA |
Explanation |
|
Reduce fine lines, wrinkles, and scars |
✓ |
Exfoliation on the Surface: AHAs work primarily on the skin's surface, effectively exfoliating dead skin cells. This can help improve skin texture, diminish fine lines and wrinkles, and reduce the appearance of surface scars. |
|
Hydrate and brighten dull skin |
✓ |
Hydration: AHAs, especially glycolic acid, have humectant properties. This means they attract moisture to the skin, which helps to hydrate and plump the skin and leads to a brighter, more radiant complexion. |
AHAs may be a good addition to a winter skin care routine, since they’re ideal for dull, dry, or dehydrated skin.
When to Use BHAs:
|
Use Cases |
BHA |
Explanation |
|
Penetrate and clear out pores |
✓ |
BHAs are oil-soluble. This allows them to penetrate and clean deep within the pores, unlike water-soluble AHAs which only exfoliate the surface. |
|
Reduce acne, blackheads, and oil |
✓ |
BHAs regulate sebum production by clearing out excess oil and dead skin cells. This helps to prevent acne and blackheads. |
|
Reduce redness and swelling |
✓ |
BHAs have natural anti-inflammatory properties that soothe irritated skin and reduce redness and swelling. |
|
Suitable for sensitive skin and rosacea |
✓ |
BHAs gently exfoliate without causing irritation, which helps reduce inflammation. |
|
Improve appearance of large pores |
✓ |
BHAs exfoliate and clean pores, making pores appear smaller. |
How to Choose the Right Exfoliant for Your Skin
In general, AHAs are best for dry, sun-damaged skin to target surface-level skin concerns, while BHAs are best for oily, acne-prone skin to work within the pores. BHAs are also typically a milder, gentler option compared to AHAs.
AHAs and BHAs are commonly used together. Look for chemical exfoliants with both AHAs and BHAs listed in the ingredients to take advantage of both benefits:
AHA ingredients:
- Lactic acid
- Glycolic acid
- Malic acid
- Citric acid
- Tartaric acid
BHA ingredients:
- Salicylic acid
- Beta hydroxybutanoic acid
- Tropic acid
- Trethocanic acid
Skincare Routine Suggestions
Regardless of your skin type, facial exfoliation deserves to be one of your skincare routine steps. Whether you introduce an AHA or BHA exfoliant to your current routine, start by using it just once a week, after cleansing with a sonic facial cleansing brush. Work your way up to using it as often as twice a week as long as you don’t notice irritation, peeling, or dryness. Follow with moisturizer.
You can also use your new exfoliant as part of a relaxing home facial.
You can also introduce AHAs or BHAs into your skincare routine with a cleanser or moisturizer that includes them as an ingredient. Check the label!
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